Collagen redux: One important truth about anti-aging skincare

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For all the potions and treatments promising eternal youth, the anti-aging crusade is, at its core, about preserving and producing collagen in our skin. We previously talked to Dr. Danny Guo, a dermatologist and the director of Rejuvenation Medical in Calgary, about how collagen supplements work. This week, we are exploring what topical serums and creams can stimulate collagen production in our skin.
If you Google ‘ultimate skincare routine,’ you’ll be presented with an unending list of ‘Best Of’ articles and videos. From seasoned experts to radiant celebrities, everyone has a take. (The Curator included!). Finding what’s suitable for your skin is a lifelong journey; however, if you hang on to one truth after reading yet another article, let it be this: Collagen, as an ingredient in lotion, can make your skin feel moisturized, but it doesn’t affect the structure of your skin.
I’ll let Dr. Guo explain: “Topical collagen can’t be absorbed into the skin simply because it is too large of a molecule. It can act as a humectant and attract water, thus moisturizing the skin, but that is the limit of its topical benefits.”
Collagen is found in the dermis layer of the skin. If you recall from “How to Unlock the Fountain of Youth Within,” after age 20, we begin to lose collagen in our skin at the rate of 1 per cent per year. This can be accelerated by UV damage. Females lose 30 per cent of their remaining collagen within the first five years post-menopause.
Dr. Guo reassures me that while “you can’t restore it back to when you were a baby,” it certainly is possible to restore lost collagen.”
So, where to start? It’s not a matter of adding collagen but applying ingredients that will activate and protect collagen production in our skin.
When it comes to boosting collagen, it all comes down to three active ingredients vital to an anti-aging skincare regimen. Each has antioxidant effects and help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, among many other benefits.
How you layer your skincare products plays an important part too. Take note!
Morning: Clean & Tone Face + Neck→ Vitamin C serum→ Hylaurnic Acid→Moisturizer→Sunscreen (or a Moisturizer with Sunscreen)
Evening:  Clean & Tone Face and Neck→ Hylauronic Acid Serum→ Retinol →Nicinamide→Moisturizer
Here are 12 products and brands that caught our eye. To get the most out of each treatment, note at what time of day and in what order it is recommended to use them.
When to use: Nighttime.
What it can be used with: Niacinamide and Hyaluronic Acid.
Use Retinol in the evening on your face and neck after you wash and tone your skin. If it’s not already in the product you are using, you can enhance your nighttime routine with a hyaluronic acid and niacinamide serum. Sandwiching the retinol between the hyaluronic acid and niacinamide will reduce the chance of irritation while infusing moisture into your skin. Don’t forget to apply a moisturizer too! Wait five minutes between layers to allow each product to be absorbed by your skin. Remember Dr. Guo’s advice: If you are new to Retinol, begin using a lower concentration a couple of times a week, gradually building up to five times a week.
 
 
 
 
p.s. There’s also a 0.5 per cent option too.
 
 
When to use: Morning or night.
Avoid: Using it with Vitamin C. If Vitamin C is part of your morning routine, save the Niacinamide for nighttime use.
Now, according to Dr. Guo, Niacinamide sounds like a no-brainer.

A post shared by Dr. Danny Guo, MD (@dannyguo.md)

 
 
 
 
 
When to Use: Morning
 
 
 
 
 
 
Since the changes are slow and require consistency, taking pictures month to month can help you to see if your efforts are, in fact, worthwhile.